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At first you want to give a reward every time your pet does the desired response. Use a good term with each command that stays consistent, and pair with a hand gesture.

Once your dog begins to respond consistently, you can begin reducing the reward to every other time, until all that is needed is the hand gesture and command word. You can mix it up with rewards, but remain consistent with commands and gestures, as these are what you ultimate want your dog to respond to.

The reward response is applicable to all commands that you are trying to train your dog to do. To follow are some examples:

Keep in mind, when training a dachshund, that you want to refrain from teaching them tricks that could eventually cause injury to their backs. Although it's cute to see rover roll over, drop dead with a finger point and "bang," or sit up, these are all potential disasters for their back health.

For the utility commands, using a small treat or whatever your dog has in their "want" list, hold it over their head and say the command, like "sit" and use your hand gesture for the same. Maybe use closed fingers, as in holding something for "sit," and open hand, palm facing them for "stay." When they respond appropriately, reward them immediately. The hand to the side and "Okay" to release them.

For beginners, work on the desired command first, like "sit," before advancing to commands of "stay" and "okay" (to release) to ensure your dog is command ready.

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Now, let's look at some of the commands that are a bit more advanced and needed to help your dog be a good citizen in public and at home.

The first step is to ensure that your dog is accustomed to the leash. For training purposes, the most effective collar is a "pinch collar" which, when used correctly is an excellent tool in leash training your dog. To see how to properly fit and adjust the pinch collar click here.

Pinch or Prong Collar: Used for Training purposes ONLY. Must be removed when you are not training your dog. Experts will tell you that effective control of your dog comes by not only using the consistency and proper commands, but also using the proper tools. Never use a pinch collar on a dog exhibiting signs of fear, as this will only add to the issue. Consult with your trainer for the best methods and/collar for your dog.

Regular Collar: used for keeping tags, remains on your dog at all times. Not effective in leash training, as your dachshund can easily slip out of it, should the right squirrel come along.

Harness: used for walking, riding in cars, boats (with safety vest), and other activities where you need them readily controlled should the unexpected occur where full-body control is needed to protect your dog.

Safety is always first and foremost!

If you want the combined control of a collar and harness, we suggest you use a short double-leash attachment, which you can attach to both the collar and the harness. Just know that it's the tug on the collar that exerts the proper control message.

For training, we suggest a leash that is no longer that 4 feet, 6 feet maximum. Using greater lengths encourages your dog to wander, which is counter-productive to the overall effectiveness of leash training. The only time your dog should be given more than 4-6 feet of distance, is when they are allowed to romp and play in the yard or a park.

With leash training, your goal is to get your dog to either do something, or stop doing something. Some of the things you want them to do: Come when called, Walk despite the distractions, Wait or Stay while opening a door. Some things you want them to NOT do: Not jump on furniture or people, Not bite while playing (especially with children), or to Leave something alone (like poop ~ yuck).

Most of the commands in this area work well together, depending on what you want your dog to do or stop doing. There are other tips, tied to specific behaviors, you should use, to add to the overall effectiveness of your command.

Start with the basics. Use your collar/leash combo and work on training your walk properly (in the right direction) and come when commanded. Be sure to not over do it, giving your dog time to adjust and learn with daily, consistent training. Start with just 10 minutes a day, the first week. As they begin to respond without hesitation, to your commands, you're ready to add additional commands, with the leash training.

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Walking should be a great time for your and your dog to get your exercise and explore the world beyond your home.

Pick which side you want your dog to walk on, left or right. If you begin walking and they are out of position, give a gentle tug on the leash and "stop" command. Reposition where they should be and praise them.

Start walking again with the "go" command and repeat as necessary. By gently tugging on the leash, you do not have to let the dog know you're not happy, you just want them to acknowledge a correction. This is a great distraction breaker that doesn't necessarily need a command, once they connect the tug with a correction. Reinforcing the leash correction with the command for what you want them to do needs to be consistent.

Training your dog to come when called is probably the easiest of the off/on leash tool to aid with distractions. It is something that you can train them to respond to using the "come" command, or their name, or both combined.

Always remember, when you are training your dog to come, that this is a command of trust. If you command your dog to come to you, to be reprimanded, you will lose that trust, and risk your dog not listening to you at all. Remember that dogs can sense and respond to tone. If you get frustrated, don't take it out on your dog, take a break.

One trick that we have learned with our own dogs, comes from when we, as children, were being trained to come when Mom called. Tone was important. And, if they added our middle and/or last name, we knew we were in trouble. Think about those around you that call your name, on a regular basis. Do you know when it's a good tone or a bad tone? Dogs typically respond in the same manner. Just remember to be consistent with what words you use and how you use them.

Practice by calling your dog to you, when they're distracted, using your command for them to come. When they come to you, praise them or give them a treat. If they don't come, give a gentle tug on the leash. when they turn toward you, repeat the command. Practice this off leash, at home, as well to reinforce the "come" command.

When you have young children in the family, they should never play unsupervised with the puppy, as they do not have the strength to ward off the untrained puppy or dog. And, some may find it funny or cute to see the puppy growl, show their teeth or pounce when they grab the dogs toy, nose, tail or when they mimic the dog, while playing, with growls and aggressive behaviors. Eventually, the dog is going to see that biting is the fastest means to ending the fun and is considered an unwanted attention; And, your child could get hurt.

Train your child to be gentle with the dog, teaching them what is and is not appropriate when handling or playing with a puppy or any dog. Learn more about children and dogs on our Introducing dogs to kids page.

If your puppy or dog jumps on you, simply ignore them, or turn your back, with the command of "down". When their feet (all four of them) are on the ground, turn around and get down to their level and praise them. Basic rule to remember is that your puppy or dog needs to recognize that they will not get food, treats, toys or attention unless all four feet are planted on the ground. Be consistent and patient. And, ensure that EVERYONE in the house is consistent with the command and reaction when your puppy/dog jumps on them.

Use the "off" command in the same manner, when you find your dog getting onto furniture or objects where they are not suppose to be. Never allow your dachshund to jump onto or off of furniture, as this may cause injuries to their back. In this, train your dog that they are only allowed on the furniture when invited, no exceptions

If your dachshund is allowed to be on the furniture or bed, consider building or purchasing a ramp for them to climb onto and off. Teaching them to use a non-jumping ramp will go a long way in protecting them from future injuries to their back.

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Think about where that mouth has been when your favorite little poop-eater decides to give you kisses. Some of those parasites can make you sick, too. In general, it's a good idea to NOT let your puppy or dog lick you on the mouth, for all the reasons we don't want them to eat poop.

Even though our dog is very much a part of the family, which is a good thing; they are still dogs, and need to be taught commands that restrict their activities, to include licking or kissing. Some affections shared between humans are not a good thing with our pets.